“Buttermilk Fried Chicken at Estelle’s Southern Cuisine”, Boston Phoenix, 3/12/13:
In food-nerd circles, the question of authenticity is a loaded one. For example, mention Estelle’s Southern Cuisine, a new South End restaurant, and many will ask, “But is it authentic Southern cuisine?” I wasn’t born and raised in the South (or Taiwan, or Brazil, or Lebanon): who am I to judge? Better to ask, “Is it traditional?”, i.e., following the cuisine’s widely recognized foodways, a more academic, less controversial question, demanding no pretensions to authority. The more trenchant question, of course, is “Is it good?” In the case of Estelle’s, the answers to these questions are, respectively, “Not my place to say,” “Yes, but only loosely,” and “Hell, yes.”
“Southern Comforts in the South End”, Boston Globe, 1/30/13:
[The] pickles tell you nearly everything you need to know about Estelle’s, a new Southern-inspired restaurant in the South End. It will not be mistaken for a mainstay in, say, Savannah, Ga., nor does it try to be. Estelle’s is definitively a Northern approximation of what you’d find below the Mason-Dixon line.
That’s a niggling point for a place that otherwise gets an awful lot right under the direction of co-owner Brian Poe (Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake, the Tip Tap Room) and executive chef Eric Gburski (East Coast Grill).